iPhone 16 Pro Max Charge Port Replacement

Gerät
iPhone 16 Pro Max
Schwierigkeit
Mittel
Geschätzte Dauer
⏱ 1 h
iPhone 16 Pro Max Charge Port Replacement

This guide shows how to remove and replace the USB-C charge port in your iPhone 16 Pro Max.

If your port feels loose, or you experience connectivity or charging issues when you plug in your iPhone, you may need to replace your charge port.

Before you perform this repair, try cleaning the port first. You may not have a broken port—just a dirty one.

You'll need replacement microphone and back glass adhesives to complete this repair.

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Werkzeuge

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Anleitung

  1. Before you begin

    • Before you begin
    • Before you begin
    • Before you begin

    Unplug any cables from your iPhone.

    Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.

  2. Tape over any cracks

    • Tape over any cracks
    • Tape over any cracks

    If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

  3. Remove the pentalobe screws

    • Remove the pentalobe screws
    • Remove the pentalobe screws

    Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

  4. Mark your opening picks

    • Mark your opening picks
    • Mark your opening picks
    • Mark your opening picks

    Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

  5. Create a gap using a suction handle

    • Create a gap using a suction handle

    Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

  6. Step 6

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.

    Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.

    Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

  7. Back glass information

    • Back glass information

    A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.

    Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.

  8. Separate the bottom edge adhesive

    • Separate the bottom edge adhesive
    • Separate the bottom edge adhesive

    Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

    Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  9. Heat the left edge

    • Heat the left edge

    Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

  10. Separate the left adhesive

    • Separate the left adhesive
    • Separate the left adhesive

    Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.

    Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.

    Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  11. Heat the top edge and corner

    • Heat the top edge and corner

    Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge and top-right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

  12. Separate the top adhesive

    • Separate the top adhesive
    • Separate the top adhesive

    Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.

    Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, stopping above the volume up button.

    Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  13. Heat the right edge

    • Heat the right edge

    Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

  14. Separate the right adhesive

    • Separate the right adhesive
    • Separate the right adhesive

    Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.

    Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping below the volume down button.

    Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  15. Reposition the back glass

    • Reposition the back glass
    • Reposition the back glass
    • Reposition the back glass

    Swing open the back glass to the right of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.

    Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.

  16. Remove the battery connector cover

    • Remove the battery connector cover

    Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:

    Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

    One 1.0 mm‑long screw

  17. Step 17

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Lift and remove the battery connector cover.

  18. Disconnect the battery

    • Disconnect the battery
    • Disconnect the battery

    Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

  19. Remove the back glass connector cover

    • Remove the back glass connector cover

    Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:

    Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

    Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

  20. Step 20

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Lift the back glass connector cover straight up and remove it.

  21. Remove the back glass

    • Remove the back glass
    • Remove the back glass

    Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.

  22. Step 22

    • Repair step image

    Remove the back glass.

  23. Remove the Taptic Engine cover

    • Remove the Taptic Engine cover
    • Remove the Taptic Engine cover

    Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:

    One 2.9 mm‑long screw

    One 1.3 mm‑long screw

    One 2.4 mm‑long screw

  24. Step 24

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.

    Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.

  25. Loosen the lower assembly cable

    • Loosen the lower assembly cable
    • Loosen the lower assembly cable

    Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.

  26. Step 26

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.

  27. Step 27

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:

    One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

    One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

  28. Step 28

    • Repair step image

    Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.

  29. Step 29

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.

    Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.

  30. Remove the Taptic Engine

    • Remove the Taptic Engine

    Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

  31. Step 31

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use the point of a spudger to pivot the corner bracket up.

  32. Step 32

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

  33. Step 33

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.

    Remove the Taptic Engine.

  34. Remove the loudspeaker

    • Remove the loudspeaker
    • Remove the loudspeaker

    Remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:

    One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw

    One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw

    One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw

    One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

  35. Step 35

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Insert the point of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker's bottom-right screw hole.

    Pry up and remove the loudspeaker.

  36. Remove the bottom microphone

    • Remove the bottom microphone

    Remove the three screws securing the bottom microphone:

    One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw

    One 3 mm‑long standoff screw

    One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

  37. Step 37

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the bottom microphone.

    Remove the bottom microphone.

  38. Remove the adhesive gasket

    • Remove the adhesive gasket

    Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the old adhesive gasket from the bottom of the frame.

  39. Remove the charge port

    • Remove the charge port
    • Remove the charge port
    • Remove the charge port

    Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the charge port to the frame.

  40. Step 40

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Insert the point of a spudger under one side of the charge port.

    Pry up gently to separate the gasket and lift the port up.

    Repeat on the other side to fully loosen the port.

  41. Step 41

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Remove the charge port.

    The two screw posts underneath the charge port have grounding clips on them. If the clips fell off, be sure to place them back onto their posts. The clips should face towards the bottom of the iPhone.

  42. Disassembly complete

    • Disassembly complete
  43. Check the black prongs for alignment

    • Check the black prongs for alignment

    Make sure the two black prongs are standing straight up. If they were bent when you removed the charge port, use the point of a spudger to carefully straighten them.

  44. Install the charge port

    • Install the charge port
    • Install the charge port

    Angle the bottom edge of the charge port into its recess and press the charge port in place.

  45. Step 45

    • Repair step image

    Use a pentalobe P2 driver to temporarily install the two external pentalobe screws.

  46. Step 46

    • Remove the charge port
    • Remove the charge port
    • Remove the charge port

    Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the charge port to the frame.

  47. Step 47

    • Repair step image

    Use a pentalobe P2 driver to remove the two temporary pentalobe screws.

  48. Install the bottom microphone

    • Install the bottom microphone
    • Install the bottom microphone
    • Install the bottom microphone

    Peel the white liner from the microphone adhesive gasket

    Align the gasket to the frame's microphone cutout and use a spudger to press it in place.

    Remove the remaining liner from the adhesive.

  49. Step 49

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Insert the microphone at a downward angle into its recess before pressing it flat to the frame.

  50. Step 50

    • Remove the bottom microphone

    Install the three screws securing the bottom microphone:

    One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw

    One 3 mm‑long standoff screw

    One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

  51. Install the loudspeaker

    • Install the loudspeaker
    • Install the loudspeaker

    Angle the bottom edge of the loudspeaker towards the frame.

    Press the loudspeaker into its recess.

  52. Step 52

    • Remove the loudspeaker
    • Remove the loudspeaker

    Install the four screws securing the loudspeaker:

    One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw

    One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw

    One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw

    One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

  53. Install the Taptic Engine

    • Install the Taptic Engine

    Lay the Taptic Engine in its recess.

  54. Step 54

    • Repair step image

    Use your finger to pivot the corner bracket down into place.

  55. Step 55

    • Remove the Taptic Engine

    Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

  56. Step 56

    • Repair step image

    Use your finger to gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine.

  57. Step 57

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Install the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:

    One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

    One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

  58. Step 58

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the two lower assembly cable connectors.

  59. Step 59

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Lay the Taptic Engine cover in place and align it by its screw holes.

    Make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.

  60. Step 60

    • Remove the Taptic Engine cover
    • Remove the Taptic Engine cover

    Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:

    One 2.9 mm‑long screw

    One 1.3 mm‑long screw

    One 2.4 mm‑long screw

  61. Step 61

    • Repair step image

    Use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.

  62. Remove the leftover adhesive

    • Remove the leftover adhesive
    • Remove the leftover adhesive
    • Remove the leftover adhesive

    Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.

    Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.

  63. Clean the back glass

    • Clean the back glass
    • Clean the back glass

    If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.

  64. Clean the frame

    • Clean the frame

    Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.

    Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

  65. Apply the replacement adhesive

    • Apply the replacement adhesive

    Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.

  66. Step 66

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.

  67. Step 67

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.

    When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.

  68. Step 68

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.

  69. Step 69

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.

  70. Step 70

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.

    Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.

  71. Connect the back glass

    • Connect the back glass

    Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.

  72. Step 72

    • Repair step image

    Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.

  73. Connect the battery

    • Connect the battery

    Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.

  74. Install the connector covers

    • Install the connector covers

    Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

  75. Step 75

    • Repair step image

    Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:

    Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

    Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

  76. Step 76

    • Repair step image

    Align the battery connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

  77. Step 77

    • Repair step image

    Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:

    Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

    One 1.0 mm‑long screw

  78. Remove the final adhesive liners

    • Remove the final adhesive liners
    • Remove the final adhesive liners

    Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.

    Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.

  79. Install the back glass

    • Install the back glass
    • Install the back glass
    • Install the back glass

    Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.

    Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.

  80. Apply heat to the perimeter

    • Apply heat to the perimeter

    Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.

  81. Apply pressure to the perimeter

    • Apply pressure to the perimeter
    • Apply pressure to the perimeter

    Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.

  82. Step 82

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.

    Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.

    Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.

  83. Step 83

    • Repair step image
    • Repair step image

    Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.

    Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.

  84. Install the pentalobe screws

    • Remove the pentalobe screws
    • Remove the pentalobe screws

    Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

Abschluss

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

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