iPhone 16 Pro Max Charge Port Replacement
This guide shows how to remove and replace the USB-C charge port in your iPhone 16 Pro Max.
If your port feels loose, or you experience connectivity or charging issues when you plug in your iPhone, you may need to replace your charge port.
Before you perform this repair, try cleaning the port first. You may not have a broken port—just a dirty one.
You'll need replacement microphone and back glass adhesives to complete this repair.
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Werkzeuge
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Coffee Filters or a lint-free cloth Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Coin Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Hair Dryer Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Heat Gun Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Heavy Books Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6) Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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iOpener Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
- Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater) Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Masking Tape Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Microfiber Cleaning Cloths Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Packing Tape Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Phillips #000 Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Spudger Verfügbarkeit: Bestellbar Im Shop ansehen →
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Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Suction Handle Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
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Tweezers Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Ersatzteile
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Precut Double-Sided Adhesive Card Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Anleitung
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Before you begin
Unplug any cables from your iPhone.
Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.
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Tape over any cracks
If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
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Remove the pentalobe screws
Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.
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Mark your opening picks
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Create a gap using a suction handle
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Step 6
Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Back glass information
A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.
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Separate the bottom edge adhesive
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Heat the left edge
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Separate the left adhesive
Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.
Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Heat the top edge and corner
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge and top-right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Separate the top adhesive
Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, stopping above the volume up button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Heat the right edge
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Separate the right adhesive
Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.
Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping below the volume down button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Reposition the back glass
Swing open the back glass to the right of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.
Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.
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Remove the battery connector cover
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
One 1.0 mm‑long screw
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Step 17
Lift and remove the battery connector cover.
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Disconnect the battery
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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Remove the back glass connector cover
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
Two 1.0 mm‑long screws
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Step 20
Lift the back glass connector cover straight up and remove it.
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Remove the back glass
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.
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Step 22
Remove the back glass.
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Remove the Taptic Engine cover
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
One 2.9 mm‑long screw
One 1.3 mm‑long screw
One 2.4 mm‑long screw
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Step 24
Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.
Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.
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Loosen the lower assembly cable
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.
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Step 26
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.
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Step 27
Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw
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Step 28
Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.
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Step 29
Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.
Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.
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Remove the Taptic Engine
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.
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Step 31
Use the point of a spudger to pivot the corner bracket up.
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Step 32
Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.
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Step 33
Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.
Remove the Taptic Engine.
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Remove the loudspeaker
Remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Step 35
Insert the point of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker's bottom-right screw hole.
Pry up and remove the loudspeaker.
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Remove the bottom microphone
Remove the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Step 37
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the bottom microphone.
Remove the bottom microphone.
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Remove the adhesive gasket
Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the old adhesive gasket from the bottom of the frame.
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Remove the charge port
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the charge port to the frame.
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Step 40
Insert the point of a spudger under one side of the charge port.
Pry up gently to separate the gasket and lift the port up.
Repeat on the other side to fully loosen the port.
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Step 41
Remove the charge port.
The two screw posts underneath the charge port have grounding clips on them. If the clips fell off, be sure to place them back onto their posts. The clips should face towards the bottom of the iPhone.
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Disassembly complete
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Check the black prongs for alignment
Make sure the two black prongs are standing straight up. If they were bent when you removed the charge port, use the point of a spudger to carefully straighten them.
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Install the charge port
Angle the bottom edge of the charge port into its recess and press the charge port in place.
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Step 45
Use a pentalobe P2 driver to temporarily install the two external pentalobe screws.
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Step 46
Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the charge port to the frame.
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Step 47
Use a pentalobe P2 driver to remove the two temporary pentalobe screws.
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Install the bottom microphone
Peel the white liner from the microphone adhesive gasket
Align the gasket to the frame's microphone cutout and use a spudger to press it in place.
Remove the remaining liner from the adhesive.
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Step 49
Insert the microphone at a downward angle into its recess before pressing it flat to the frame.
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Step 50
Install the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Install the loudspeaker
Angle the bottom edge of the loudspeaker towards the frame.
Press the loudspeaker into its recess.
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Step 52
Install the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Install the Taptic Engine
Lay the Taptic Engine in its recess.
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Step 54
Use your finger to pivot the corner bracket down into place.
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Step 55
Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.
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Step 56
Use your finger to gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine.
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Step 57
Install the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw
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Step 58
Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the two lower assembly cable connectors.
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Step 59
Lay the Taptic Engine cover in place and align it by its screw holes.
Make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.
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Step 60
Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
One 2.9 mm‑long screw
One 1.3 mm‑long screw
One 2.4 mm‑long screw
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Step 61
Use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.
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Remove the leftover adhesive
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.
Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.
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Clean the back glass
If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.
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Clean the frame
Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.
Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.
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Apply the replacement adhesive
Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.
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Step 66
Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.
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Step 67
Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.
When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.
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Step 68
Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.
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Step 69
Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.
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Step 70
Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.
Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.
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Connect the back glass
Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.
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Step 72
Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.
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Connect the battery
Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.
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Install the connector covers
Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.
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Step 75
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
Two 1.0 mm‑long screws
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Step 76
Align the battery connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.
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Step 77
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
One 1.0 mm‑long screw
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Remove the final adhesive liners
Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.
Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.
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Install the back glass
Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.
Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.
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Apply heat to the perimeter
Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.
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Apply pressure to the perimeter
Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.
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Step 82
Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.
Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.
Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.
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Step 83
Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.
Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.
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Install the pentalobe screws
Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.
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Abschluss
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.