Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement (2)

Gerät: Nintendo Switch
Schwierigkeit: Mittel
Geschätzte Dauer: ⏱ 45 min

Follow this guide to replace the rubber conductive button pad and or exterior power and volume buttons.

The Switch uses JIS screws. A JIS 00 driver works best, but you can also use a JIS 000 driver. If you use a Phillips driver, you'll risk stripping the screws.

When reinstalling, attach the exterior plastic buttons to the rubber conductive pad and insert them together into the device.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

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Werkzeuge

ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Isopropyl Alcohol Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
JIS 00 Screwdriver Bit Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Microfiber Cleaning Cloths Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Spudger Verfügbarkeit: Bestellbar Im Shop ansehen →
Thermal Paste Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Tweezers Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →

Anleitung

Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs
Hinweis: Note Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
Remove the Joy Con controllers
Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

Hinweis: Note Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
Remove the back-side screws
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

Hinweis: Note Throughout this repair, <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/en-eu/products/magnetic-project-mat" target="_blank" class="product-link">keep track of each screw</a> and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Hinweis: Note If you do happen to strip one of the four 6.3 mm-long Y00 screws, If you are lucky and careful, you may be able to use a Y0 bit to remove the screw(s). Please note that if you do attempt this, a bit of extra pressure will need to be applied to the screwdriver so that the screwdriver bit catches the screw.

Vorsicht: Caution If you do end up removing the stripped screw with this method, PLEASE do not reuse the screw again and instead replace the screw.
Remove the top and bottom screws
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

Hinweis: Note To prevent these tight screws from <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213">stripping</a>, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS 00 driver if the screws won't come out. Make sure the driver is fully inserted.

Hinweis: Note You can use a Phillips #000 screwdriver in a pinch, but you risk damaging or <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213">stripping the screws</a>. Push down firmly on the screwdriver and twist slowly. Often, switching drivers may help, even if they are the same size.
Remove the center side screws
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
Step 6
Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
Remove the kickstand well screw
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

Close the kickstand.
Remove the rear panel
Open the game card cartridge flap.

Hinweis: Note The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

Lift the rear panel straight up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Hinweis: Note Don't tilt it upwards while opening or else you risk breaking the plastic tabs on the top edge of the panel.
Remove the shield plate
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
Step 10
Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

Vorsicht: Caution If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.
Step 11
Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

Hinweis: Note You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

Hinweis: Note A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.

You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you're careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.

If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as thermal putty or K5 Pro, during reassembly.
Disconnect the battery
Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Remove the heat sink
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
Step 14

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

Hinweis: Note The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

Vorsicht: Caution The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.
Step 15
Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

Hinweis: Note You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Erinnerung: Reminder Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744" target="_blank">Apply new thermal paste</a> to the CPU before reassembly.

Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.
Remove the fan
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
Step 17
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Step 18
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.
Step 19
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

Hinweis: Note Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.
Step 20
Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Step 21
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the taped down power/volume ribbon cable.
Step 22
Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
Step 23
Pull the rubber conductive pad out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
Step 24
Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.