Nintendo Switch Lite Digitizer Replacement

Gerät: Nintendo Switch Lite
Schwierigkeit: Mittel
Geschätzte Dauer: ⏱ 45 min

Follow this guide to replace a cracked or damaged digitizer on the Nintendo Switch Lite. This repair does not require removing the joysticks or buttons, but it makes the repair much easier.

The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: This guide is for the digitizer only. If the LCD stopped working, you may just need to replace it, rather than the digitizer. If you are replacing the screen (the LCD attached to the digitizer) follow this guide.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

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Werkzeuge

iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6) Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
iFixit Opening Tool Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
iOpener Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Isopropyl Alcohol Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Microfiber Cleaning Cloths Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Phillips #00 Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Spudger Verfügbarkeit: Bestellbar Im Shop ansehen →
Thermal Paste Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver Bit Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Tweezers Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →

Ersatzteile

Nintendo Switch Lite Touch Screen Digitizer Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Precut Double-Sided Adhesive Card Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →

Anleitung

Remove the back panel screws
Vorsicht: Caution Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.

Hinweis: Note Throughout this repair, <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/en-eu/products/magnetic-project-mat" target="_blank" class="product-link">keep track of each screw</a> and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Remove the top and bottom back panel screws
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:

Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device

Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device

Hinweis: Note To prevent these tight screws from <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213">stripping</a>, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.
Release the clips securing the back panel
Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.

Vorsicht: Caution Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.
Continue releasing the clips around the device
Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
Twist to release the clips
Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

Twist the opening tool to release the clips.

Vorsicht: Caution Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.
Slide and pry around the corners
Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
Step 7
Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.
Remove the back panel
Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.

Remove the back panel.
Remove the shield plate
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four screws securing the shield plate:

Three 3.1 mm screws

One 4.5 mm screw
Step 10
Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.

Hinweis: Note You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

Remove the shield plate.

Erinnerung: Reminder Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744" target="_blank">Apply new thermal paste</a> to the heat sink before reassembly.
Disconnect the interconnect cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
Step 12
Vorsicht: Caution <strong>Do Not Use Metal Tweezers!</strong> Some fixers state that metallic tweezers can short circuit the ribbon cable/connector. It might be safer to just use nylon-tipped or ceramic-tipped tweezers.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Disconnect the battery
Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Erinnerung: Reminder During reassembly, wait until <strong>after</strong> you connect the interconnect cable (above) before connecting the battery.
Remove the heat sink
Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

Hinweis: Note The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
Step 15
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
Step 16
Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.

Hinweis: Note You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Erinnerung: Reminder Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744" target="_blank">Apply new thermal paste</a> to the CPU before reassembly.
Remove the game card reader and headphone jack
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.
Step 18
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.
Step 19
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.

Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.
Remove the right trigger button assembly
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.
Step 21
Remove the right trigger button assembly.
Step 22
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.
Disconnect the antenna cables
Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable coaxial connector straight up off its socket on the motherboard.

Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.
Disconnect the fan cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
Step 25
Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.
Disconnect the screen cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.
Step 27
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Disconnect the digitizer cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
Step 29
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Disconnect the right joystick cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.
Step 31
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Remove the motherboard assembly
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:

Three 3.1 mm screws

Three 4.5 mm screws
Step 33
Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.

Remove the motherboard assembly.
Remove the right joystick
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.
Step 35
Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

Hinweis: Note There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
Remove the left speaker module
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.

Vorsicht: Caution Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.
Step 37
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.
Step 38
Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.

Vorsicht: Caution Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.
Disconnect the motherboard interconnect cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
Step 40
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
Disconnect the screen and volume button cables
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
Step 42
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.
Remove the volume buttons
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.
Disconnect the joystick cable
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.
Step 45
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
Remove the left trigger button assembly
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.
Step 47
Remove the left trigger button assembly.
Remove the daughterboard
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

Two 4.5 mm screws

Two 6 mm screws
Step 49
Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.
Remove the left joystick
Use a JIS 000 driver or an iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.
Step 51
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

Hinweis: Note There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
Remove the midframe assembly
Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

Three 2.5 mm screws

One 6 mm screw
Step 53
Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.

Remove the midframe assembly.
Remove the buttons
At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.

Hinweis: Note Use these two photos for reference.
Remove the LCD
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back side of the LCD along the top edge for 2 minutes.

Hinweis: Note A hair dryer or <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116" target="_blank">heat gun</a> may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the LCD if you plan on reusing it, as it's susceptible to heat damage.
Step 56
Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the LCD to begin separating the two components.

Vorsicht: Caution Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don't split and damage it.

Hinweis: Note You'll know you're splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.
Step 57
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.
Step 58
Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the right edge for 2 minutes.
Step 59
Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the LCD, slicing the adhesive.

Vorsicht: Caution The LCD and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.
Step 60
Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the bottom edge for 2 minutes.
Step 61
Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.

Hinweis: Note You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the LCD's edge to work around the frame.
Step 62
Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the left edge for 2 minutes.
Step 63
Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.

Vorsicht: Caution Take care not to snag the LCD's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.
Step 64
Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the LCD up and out of the frame to remove it.

Erinnerung: Reminder If you're reusing the LCD (or your new LCD does not come with pre‑installed adhesive), <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604" target="_blank">follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive</a> around the perimeter before reassembly.
Step 65
Hinweis: Note If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.

Erinnerung: Reminder Prior to installing a new LCD, use isopropyl alcohol and a <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/en-eu/products/microfiber-cleaning-cloths" class="product-link">microfiber cloth</a> to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the LCD.
Remove the digitizer
Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the left edge 2 minutes.
Step 67
Slightly bend the left side of the frame to create a gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Hinweis: Note If you're having difficulty creating a gap, apply more heat.
Step 68
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.
Step 69
Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the top edge for 2 minutes.
Step 70
Continue working the opening pick around the top-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.
Step 71
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.
Step 72
Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the bottom edge for 2 minutes.
Step 73
Continue working the opening pick around the bottom-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.
Step 74
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.
Step 75
Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the right edge for 2 minutes.
Step 76
Use your hands to slowly lift the left side of the digitizer, opening it like a book.

Hinweis: Note The positioning of the digitizer cables prevents removing the digitizer straight off the frame.
Step 77
Lift the right side of the digitizer straight off the frame at a 45-degree angle to remove it.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Anleitung

Remove the back panel screws

Remove the top and bottom back panel screws

Release the clips securing the back panel

Continue releasing the clips around the device

Twist to release the clips

Slide and pry around the corners

Step 7

Remove the back panel

Remove the shield plate

Step 10

Disconnect the interconnect cable

Step 12

Disconnect the battery

Remove the heat sink

Step 15

Step 16

Remove the game card reader and headphone jack

Step 18

Step 19

Remove the right trigger button assembly

Step 21

Step 22

Disconnect the antenna cables

Disconnect the fan cable

Step 25

Disconnect the screen cable

Step 27

Disconnect the digitizer cable

Step 29

Disconnect the right joystick cable

Step 31

Remove the motherboard assembly

Step 33

Remove the right joystick

Step 35

Remove the left speaker module

Step 37

Step 38

Disconnect the motherboard interconnect cable

Step 40

Disconnect the screen and volume button cables

Step 42

Remove the volume buttons

Disconnect the joystick cable

Step 45

Remove the left trigger button assembly

Step 47

Remove the daughterboard

Step 49

Remove the left joystick

Step 51

Remove the midframe assembly

Step 53

Remove the buttons

Remove the LCD

Step 56

Step 57

Step 58

Step 59

Step 60

Step 61

Step 62

Step 63

Step 64

Step 65

Remove the digitizer

Step 67

Step 68

Step 69

Step 70

Step 71

Step 72

Step 73

Step 74

Step 75

Step 76

Step 77