Xbox Series S Motherboard Replacement

Gerät: Xbox Series S
Schwierigkeit: Mittel
Geschätzte Dauer: ⏱ 1 h

Note: When removing the heat sink, be sure to replace the thermal compound material between the heat sink and the plate. Standard thermal paste isn’t suitable for filling larger gaps, so you’ll need to use thermal putty or a high viscosity thermal paste instead. Use standard thermal paste, however, for the APU.

Important: In this guide, some minor photo inconsistencies involving the exterior Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, and power boards are present. They don't affect the repair procedure, but you can help this guide by taking, editing, or uploading new ones.

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Werkzeuge

Flathead 1.5 mm Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Spudger Verfügbarkeit: Bestellbar Im Shop ansehen →
Thermal Paste Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
TR10 Torx Security Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Tweezers Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →

Ersatzteile

iFixit Thermal Putty Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Microsoft Xbox Series S Model 1883 (12 digit serial number) US Motherboard Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Microsoft Xbox Series S Model 1883 (14 digit serial number) EU Motherboard Assembly - Genuine Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Microsoft Xbox Series S Model 1883 (14 digit serial number) US Motherboard Assembly - Genuine Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Xbox Series S Heat Sink Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Xbox Series S Heat Sink X Clamp Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →
Xbox Series S Thermal Putty - Genuine Verfügbarkeit: Externe Bezugsquelle Bei iFixit kaufen →

Anleitung

Peel off the sticker coverings
Vorsicht: Caution Before you start this guide, turn off the Xbox and unplug any cables from it.

Use tweezers to peel off the two white screw covers located on the bottom corners of the back panel.
Remove the back panel screws
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 10 mm-long screws securing the back panel to the bottom panel.

Hinweis: Note Throughout this repair, <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/en-eu/products/magnetic-project-mat" class="product-link">keep track of each screw</a> and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Remove the bottom panel
Slide the bottom panel horizontally toward the back of the console until it comes to a stop.

Hinweis: Note This slides the clips out of the slots on the plastic case.

Lift straight up and remove the bottom panel from the plastic case.
Remove the plastic case screws
Use a T10 Torx driver to remove the seven 51 mm-long screws securing the chassis to the plastic case.
Remove the plastic case
With the bottom of the Xbox facing you, pull the two bottom-rear corners of the plastic case away from each other.

As you pull the corners apart, slide the back panel towards the bottom of the device. This releases the back panel from the plastic case.

Hinweis: Note The back panel should now settle on top of the clips on the back of the plastic case.

Hinweis: Note The back panel is permanently attached to the aluminum chassis.

Vorsicht: Caution Do not attempt to fully remove the chassis from the plastic case with this technique. You may risk breaking your case.
Step 6
Pull the bottom-left corner away from the chassis while swinging the chassis away from the plastic case.

Hinweis: Note You may need to lift the chassis to free it from the clips on the bottom-front of the plastic case during this process.

Remove the plastic case from the chassis.
Remove the Bluetooth board
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.5 mm-long screws securing the Bluetooth board to the long edge of the chassis.
Step 8
Use a spudger to pry and loosen the Bluetooth board.

Vorsicht: Caution Do not pry from the bottom or sides of the Bluetooth board as it may bend the connector.

Pull the Bluetooth board straight out to disconnect it from the chassis.
Remove the power button board
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 9.5 mm-long screw securing the power button board to the chassis.
Step 10
Use a spudger to pry and loosen the power button board.

Vorsicht: Caution Do not pry from the bottom of the power button board as it may bend the connector.

Pull the power button board straight out to disconnect it from the chassis.
Remove the Wi-Fi board
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.5 mm-long screws securing the Wi-Fi board to the short edge of the chassis.
Step 12
Use a spudger to pry and loosen the Wi-Fi board.

Vorsicht: Caution Do not pry from the bottom or sides of the Wi-Fi board as it may bend the connector.

Pull the Wi-Fi board straight out to disconnect it from the chassis.
Remove the power supply screws
Use a T10 Torx driver to remove the seven 11.3 mm-long screws securing the power supply to the chassis.
Remove the upper chassis
Flip the device over.

Lift the upper chassis straight up to remove it.
Remove the power supply
Lift the power supply straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Remove the power supply.
Remove the fan screws
Use a T10 Torx driver to remove the two 11.3 mm-long screws securing the fan to the chassis.
Disconnect the fan
Flip the device over.

Vorsicht: Caution Take care when flipping the chassis over because the fan is now loose.

Use your fingers to pull and disconnect the fan connector from its motherboard socket.

Vorsicht: Caution Take care not to pull on the wires when disconnecting the fan to prevent breaking the connector.

Hinweis: Note This connector may be difficult to remove. A good method to remove it is to shimmy the connector up and out of its socket with a spudger.

Hinweis: Note You may be able to remove this connector without removing the power supply with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Remove the fan
Lift the fan straight up to remove it from the motherboard.
Remove the motherboard screws
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four 9.4 mm-long screws securing the motherboard to the chassis.
Remove the locking clip
Flip the device over.

Insert a spudger into the locking clip located on the front-left corner of the chassis.

Hinweis: Note This will open up the clip to make it easier to remove.

Lift straight up to remove the clip.
Remove the motherboard
Grasp the heat sink with your fingers and lift up the front of the motherboard up above the edge of the chassis.

Pull the motherboard towards the front of the chassis to remove it.
Remove the SSD card
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the SSD card to the motherboard.
Step 23
Pull the SSD card straight out and remove it from the motherboard.
Remove the x-clamp
Insert a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver from the top between the heat sink pin and the x-clamp.

Pry the x-clamp out and away from the heat sink pin to loosen the x-clamp.

Vorsicht: Caution Do not attempt to completely release the x-clamp with this technique.
Step 25
With the head parallel to the motherboard, insert a flathead screwdriver from the side between the heat sink pin and the x-clamp hook.

Twist the flathead screwdriver clockwise to pry the bottom edge of the x-clamp out of the groove in the heat sink pin.

Hinweis: Note If you have trouble, try using a larger flathead screwdriver.

Hinweis: Note As you twist, the x-clamp should pop off the heat sink pin. If not, try repeating the previous step before attempting this one again.
Step 26
Continue to use the same technique described in the previous two steps on all of the heat sink pins until the x-clamp is disconnected.
Step 27
Remove the x-clamp.

Erinnerung: Reminder When reattaching the x-clamp, you should be able to attach two to three sides just by pressing down the x-clamp hooks onto the heat sink pins. Then use the flathead screwdriver to pry the x-clamp hooks over the heat sink pins.
Remove the heat sink
Flip the motherboard over.

Vorsicht: Caution Take care when flipping the motherboard over because the heat sink may fall out.

Lift the heat sink straight up to remove it from the motherboard.

Hinweis: Note One of the most common symptoms of consoles overheating is a clogged heat sink. Take time to remove the dust and debris between the heat sink fins.
Step 29
Only the motherboard remains.

Follow this guide for more specifics on how to reapply thermal paste to the processor and shield plate.

Erinnerung: Reminder Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge the large gaps between the shield plate and heat sink, use <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/en-eu/products/ifixit-thermal-putty" target="_blank" class="product-link">thermal putty</a> or K5 Pro viscous thermal paste to replace the thicker, teal putty. You will, however, need normal replacement thermal paste for the APU.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Anleitung

Peel off the sticker coverings

Remove the back panel screws

Remove the bottom panel

Remove the plastic case screws

Remove the plastic case

Step 6

Remove the Bluetooth board

Step 8

Remove the power button board

Step 10

Remove the Wi-Fi board

Step 12

Remove the power supply screws

Remove the upper chassis

Remove the power supply

Remove the fan screws

Disconnect the fan

Remove the fan

Remove the motherboard screws

Remove the locking clip

Remove the motherboard

Remove the SSD card

Step 23

Remove the x-clamp

Step 25

Step 26

Step 27

Remove the heat sink

Step 29

Abschluss